Au Revoir, Siem Reap.....

The road side stall.....simple makeshift stall

Places, food and people fascinates me. I have always said that to SLing and to all my friends that I just love being in a different place with different cultures, food and life style. Amidst the hectic schedule of temples hopping, I find it incredulously interesting to see the people that had came by to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Some of the tourists antics and crude ways may shock your nervous and patience system while some are really nice. The locals are generally nice, humble and soft spoken people while a smile is never far away from their faces. I guess, just like any other community, hard living and eking out a living are more intense than others especially in Cambodia.  I had come to understand that if anything was successful in garnering an income, many of the locals will jump into the bandwagon to the same work i.e. fresh juice stalls or even tuk-tuk business for that matter. There seemed to be a glut of such stalls and rides. Anyway, the tourists ain't complaining while it would be good for the locals, right? 

Me...at the simple table and chairs...

Anyway, one experience I would not forget was riding in town on my cousin m/cycle. Imagine the three of us hopping onto the Honda m/cycle and flying through the streets of Siem Reap with the winds caressing our faces. SLing and I could not stop laughing as it was a new experience for us. Looking at our sizes ( we ain't no Size 2 , okay? )  , I was sceptical if the poor m/cycle could carry our weights for that matter. With lots of maneuvering and upright sitting and some fine body contorting moves, the three of us were on the m/cycle. SLing and I thought that we were SURE to meet our Maker faster than we'll ever know but lo and behold we made it safely to our hotel and to wherever we wanted to go that night. 

Our ban chau meal.....deliciously simple, good and fulfilling...

Throughout the journey SLing and I laughed our heads out and the coldness that hit us in the evening was indeed a cold reality. That is one sick experience which I enjoyed so much in a good way! The traffic in Siem Reap was crazy but cousin brother was an expert in ensuring the right balance and avoidance of us landing into a ditch or any unpleasant situation on the road. I thought we would surely be landing on our bums or "jatuh terkangkang" on the streets of Siem Reap but hey, we were very safe in the hands of my cousin, Jerry. 

Lovely nom kruok......tasty & heavenly good...

We went through hectic traffic in the streets and passed by some of the nicest country side scenes ever. I did not come across these places during my first trip there. The simple sunset setting and the simple lifestyle setting captivated my attention. After some fine riding and twist & turns, we arrived at a places which was frequented by the locals. The sights, sounds, smell and colors were fantastic! At that time, the sun was toning down; signalling a rest for the day. The vibrant and contrastive orangery setting was the most welcome sight indeed. I love it very much. 

The accompanying raw vegetables platter......

You could see families laying our their straw mat and see the gathering of locals having their meal amidst the setting sun. The smiles etched on their seasoned faces and the laughters of young innocent lives was indeed the sight and sounds I was looking for in places like this. No 5 star hotel nor establishment would ever portrayed that innocence and spontaneous joy that I had witnessed. It was pure and raw template of life itself. I like that...I really really like that......

As SLing and I started to sample local dishes by the road like ban chau ( flat, roundish rice cake dipped into a nice whitish savory dip accompanied by a tray of raw vegetables ) , nom kruok ( yellowish eggish pancake like folded into half with fish & vegetable filling ) plus num pang ( baguette with BBQ chicken or pork or beef with pickled papaya, carrots and vegetables ), I couldn't have asked for more. This was food at its best - raw, nice and local.  I had many times warned Jerry that I do not intend to eat any other foods except authentically Cambodian street food or local food. 

Num pang...baguette with BBQ meats & pickled papaya...

I guess,  I am that weird in a sense that I wanna try only the local food where the locals eat as I want to experience that kind of intensity in food. The twist of lime or even a pinch of salt to accompany the local dish does make a big difference. I am grateful that the road side seller - mother , daughter and son took the trouble to ensure that we had clean and good food. All I could mutter to them was " Arkun" ( meaning "thank you" in Cambodia ) for a great meal. I enjoyed it very much and the meal cost us 7000 Riel or USD $ 1.75 and we were stuffed to the bream!!! The best USD $1.75 I have ever spent, actually. 

BBQ succulent beef cuts.....

I profusely thanked the family for churning out such wonderful meal for us that evening. I remember Jerry translating their concerns if we could eat their food as it was prepared by the road side. I put my thumbs up and told Jerry to tell them that it was a truly delicious meal and I seldom eat fish meat but that "nom kruok" was excellent. There was no hint of fish taste at all and I love it. I guess, that brightened the atmosphere and smiles spread all around the family. I am just so glad and thankful to Jerry for bringing us out here to taste the local food.

The setting sun view....

Then it was off to another stall for some BBQ beef strips. Again, the BBQ beef was accompanied by a tray of raw vegetable consisting of long beans, cabbage, cucumber, green tomato, red tomato and some herb plants like mint, basil and some other leaves. The beef cuts were succulent, soft and lovely to eat. However, the price wasn't cheap but it is okay. It was a USD $5.75 meal while SLing and I tucked it in nicely as we still had some space in our stomachs for some nice BBQ beef cuts. After that it was sight seeing along the way as the sun sets in further. I was excited when I saw a stall selling crickets, water roaches, silk worms and even paddy field or freshwater crabs. The locals seemed to like it very much and many were seen buying the silkworms and the crabs. Yup, those crabs will fit in nicely with the Thai Som Tam, I tell you!!!!!

One huge arm crabs.....

Crickets, water roaches, silkworms and weird delights....

From here it was off for bargain hunting as it was our last night in Siem Reap. With Jerry who could speak Khmer, it was good for some bargain hunting on some pashmina souvenirs. Then it was off to some night spots of fun - souvenir hunting and later supper. We could never thank Jerry enough for what he had made us experience. It was indeed a great way to see the other side of Cambodia minus the loud music, Muay Thai fights and drinking spree town. 

From the King's Library at Bayon.....I made it to the top, people!

For budget travellers like me, I am also keen for a great time minus the painted facade of the town. I always looked forward to the raw and the actual scene of everyday life of a new place. I prefer the genuine lifestyle rather the created ones. 

Yup, me and the pretty lady on the pillar.....

Siem Reap, Cambodia sits pretty close to my heart for being a place that I would come back to visit someday.....again. Maybe, it holds dear to my heart coz' it was my very first trip outside the comfort of my home after 5 decades of building a family.  A special place indeed......

Au Revoir, Siem Reap!

  

Majestic Ancient Ruins.....

My second day in Siem Reap begun as early as 4.30am when I shook hands with my tuk-tuk driver, HockLee for the day. I had told Jerry , my cousin that I want to spend as much time as possible at the historical sites and catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat which I found to explicitly overrated. I did not know why I so sucked in into the sunrise thingy until I stood by the lake catching the sunrise. 

Before this, we travelled along the highway to Angkor Archaeological Park and just like everyone else, at 4.45am, we got our pass to the Angkor temples after parting USD $20.00 each which I felt was a lot but well worth t he money parted, actually, after the end of my day here. By the time, I ended my time here, I was bumped out, exhausted and I could not feel my legs! Hahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa........ I must thanked Jerry for giving me a good tuk-tuk driver who ensured that we went as many temples and sites as possible.

As usual, SLing and I started our ancient city and temple tour at Angkor Wat. I must say that Angkor Wat never failed to impress me eventhough I've been here before. The sunrise experience was one to remember as the sun breaks through the dark clouds to sportingly splatter the skies with its lush golden rays  and streaky orange delight amidst the background of the silhouette of Angkor Wat. SLing was marvelled and impressed by the splendour and architecture of Angkor Wat. Wait till you go inside, I told her and true enough she was captivated by the sheer size, stone structure and the artistic greatness at the walls and pillar. We then lined up in order for us to go up to the Bakan, the top of the tower of Angkor Wat. 

The officers manning the steps of Bakan were strict and ensured that everyone was properly dressed and covered up. Some tourists were not allowed up the steps to Bakan as they were in shorts and sleeveless t-shirts. I guess, they did not heed their Cambodian counterpart advice on this matter and paid a heavy price for it as the view up there was awesome. 

It was the Guardians of  Angkor Thom bridge and Baphuon next. The view and stone greetings were nice amidst the flowing river. The Guardians of Angkor Thom stone figurines  looked menacingly fierce and big, I guess. 

Then it is off to Baphuon.  It was another exhaustive walk and climb. Steep steps seemed never ending and I was just happy that I made it up and enjoying the beauty of the view. from the top. The water pools on the left and right made it such a view too. I realised that every temple was beautifully built and harmoniously inclined. Each block of stones laid out and put together was intricately snucked fit. It was such an honor being able to be at the temples. 

The Bayon was next and I must say that this is the most beautiful ancient ruins I've ever experienced being in. The wall carvings were beautiful and SLing loved the view indeed. I managed to explain to her the historical side of the temple after some reading up before coming to this site. I guess, there is just no words to explain the splendour of Bayon. You just have to experience it to know the beauty of it. I fell in love with Bayon as the block of faces just made it all such a marvel, actually. 

From here, it was off to Phimeanakas temple which was still in ruins and repairs had not being carried out. As we were walking with a group of Japanese tourist, it was nice to hear the guide telling the history to the Japanese tourists. The guide went on to explain to the group in regards to the two huge swimming pools available as one moved towards Temple of King Leper. Again the beauty was the carving on the walls and the lower ground carvings on the wall. There are beautifully carved out it was a surprise at every corner.

As one exits , Temple of  King Leper, one is met by Terrasse of the Elephants. It doesn't take a genius to  understand that this temple was built in honour of the Cambodian elephants which were used in many of their ancient wars. However, I must point out that some of the elephant carved blocks had been restored and sometimes did not reflect the sculpture of the elephants. I guess, there ought to be more serious of this matter as putting things together for the sake of tourism will not help in any way. Correct and good restoration are important rather than dollar and cents emphasis.

Ta Keo was next and to see the big temple in the midst of restoration works was encouraging but taking such a long time for restoration wasn't good. We then proceeded to Chau Say Tevoda temple while was a place of two uniquely built temples. As it was blistering hot and tiring, we managed our best to give our best smiles as we posed for photographs. Again,the temple is a small one but no less ancient and lovely.

The next destination was Ta Prohm, the fame Tomb Raider film site. I love this site too as the roots of the tree resting on the temple walls were a sight to behold. Prior to arrival at this site, I had asked SLing to ensure that she is not cajoled by some child to buy the souvenirs as it would not help them. 

The explanation is that these children ply the Ta Prohm route to earn money for the family and thereby refuse to go to school to study. This would increase the illiteracy rate in Cambodia and would not help their people in the end. I tend to agree to the need to get these children to school rather than ply their trade at the street to Ta Prohm.  As I led SLing to the scenic views in Ta Prohm, 

I also showed SLing the spot where Angelina Jolie had acted out her scene in Tomb Raider movie. I was bushed tired and perspiring like someone who had just came out from a sauna. Then it was a good 30 minutes walk to our tuk-tuk against the  background of Cambodian musical sounds by a group of disabled folks who had lost their limbs due to ground mines during the Khmer Rouge regime.

Our last stop was Ta Nei. This was recommended by my cousin, Jerry. This is purely an untouched ancient ruin and it is such a raw experience indeed. The ruins was superbly peaceful and quiet. It was so nice to have some peace and quiet at last and basking the cool breeze that blows by. I was extremely intrigue by the wall carvings and I find one carving of a woman smiling captivating indeed. It was so soothing to see "her" smile and the untouched ruins was indeed relaxing for once. All my tiredness seemed to go away for a moment. 

All in all, we had explored 11 ancient ruins temples and it was more than we ever bargained for. We were supposed to go to another temple site for sunset photography but our legs just won't carry us that day no more nor will our physical bodies. We were tired and our old legs just won't budge anymore. 

As I reflected back the day after a good cold shower and rest, I am so blessed to be able to see such magnificent & majestic works of art and such simplicity. I know that this experience will last me a lifetime indeed. 

Yeah...sums up my feelings inside......

Second Time...Siem Reap

I was told that most people would do Siem Reap once in their life but doing it twice would be crazy as some put it to me. I remember the sneers and the quirky look when I informed my friends that I am going to Siem Reap....again and so soon. They questioned my rationale in going to Siem Reap so soon after my first trip but I must say that I am happy to be in Siem Reap again.

I guess, the lure of Angkor Wat and the surrounding ancient historical temples and places were just too difficult to resist. Incidentally, I had SLing going with me and I really wanted to show her the majesty and the beautiful architecture of Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples of great history. I hope to show to her that there is more to life than shopping at modern cities of the world. In all honesty , I wanted to show her the beautiful creation by the human hands and also the rich culture that comes with it. I must say that it was an adventure that would change her perspective of third world nation what beautiful landscape was available.

We started out early by hitting the road to the airport. It was a good drive and when I parked the our car at Tune Hotels car park, I was excited and ready for a great day of adventure. The two hours flight from KLIA2 to Siem Reap was easy and we arrived quite early in Cambodian time. It was quite disturbing and daunting when I realised that the hotel had not sent anyone to pick us up from the airport. Being here before, I knew where to get a tuk-tuk and get to our hotel. I did not want to stress SLing out and I just needed to remain positive. Our tuk-tuk driver, Mynangsari is a young man who spoke little English but was unsure where our hotel was. Luckily, I still had the direction to our hotel and I just wanted to get to our room and rest for the day. 

After refreshing ourselves and a change of clothes, I became the unofficial tour guide for SLing in Siem Reap town. We waded through crowds of tourists and locals as well as we made our way to the wet market and a beautiful temple in town. It was a beautiful temple with a hugely Thai influence architecture. It was weird that the temple grounds was full of people and chanting was on going through the loudspeakers. It was like holiday like atmosphere and I realised that the Cambodians were deeply religious people as offerings of beautiful flowers and colourful rice cakes in multicolored basket were presented for prayers. For me, I just enjoyed people watching and enjoying the beautifully adorned temple pillar and architecture. I even took SLing to Charlie's, a local pub to sample Mojito drink (USD $1.50 or 6000 Riel) while I had a mug of draft Angkor Beer  ( USD 50 cents or 2000 Riel) to quench our thirst after a long afternoon. I told SLing that day that I ain't gonna pay USD $2.00 or 8000 Riel for a small bottle of mineral water. Yup, these are tourist prices and there is nothing one can do about it except if you have a local to buy it for you. I guess, the one thing that SLing seemed to enjoy a lot is the fresh juice (USD$1.00 ) of mango & passion fruit concoction and num pang ( 8" baguette with stuffed grilled meat (chicken & beef ) and some nice condiments of pickled papayas, cucumber and lettuce ) which cost USD 50cents when locals buy it or USD $1.00 when tourists buys it. 

I had taken the opportunity to show SLing the artistic streets whereby beautiful art pieces, paintings, clay pieces or even metal pieces were put on display and on sale plus the cafes around Siem Reap. I came to realise that Sister Srey Cafe was closed that day as it was Phcumn Benh Day sorta like All Souls Day holidays. Aha! That's why there was a crowd every where especially the market and everywhere in town! Anyway, it was fun to see the crowd of people as towns get alive because of its people, right?

Soon, it was time to meet up with my cousin, Jerry who has been in Cambodia for quite some time now. It was good to see him and passed him the apples and the Dettol products he wanted and we had to lug all the way to Siem Reap. I must say that it was well worth it as his smiles says it all.

Moreover, he helped us more than I could ever imagine for the following day trip to Angkor Wat and the temples. It was good to see him again. He came with a bag of goodies for us later in the evening after we came back after dinner and a night walk around the Night Market. I had shown SLing the crazy loud music Pub Street, bustling Night Market and changed some local Cambodian Riel for our usage here in Siem Reap. SLing was in awe as the money changer was the least perturbed by the ongoings at the street or even had any protection mechanism in place. It was a relaxing walk and people watching time as we walked in the town. Tourists were in abundance but it's part and parcel of the travelling world and places, right? Just avoid the Chinese nationals - they are a real nuisance ; any place they went - trust me!

Pho noodles @ USD 2.50 or 20,000 Riel ( Vietnamese type of soupy noodles with beef balls and beef pieces )  was our dinner that night before we packed two banana pancakes @ 3000 Riel or US 0.75 cents each ( more like roti canai pisang, actually )  for our breakfast for the next morning activity which would gruelling and tiring as I would put it. Yunno why? I was determined to see as many temples as possible and just enjoy the sights and beautiful surrounding at the UNESCO site. 

We slept early that night foregoing the night life at Pub Street plus all the noisy fanfare. Before that, I managed to show SLing , the type of bus I took on my journey to Phnom Penh the last time I was here.....ahhhhhh....sweet memories indeed........

Welcome to Siem Reap...for the second time......