Land Below The Wind - Day Three

Good morning, Sabah! This is day three and aftermath of the reunion. Our program this morning would be to go to Tamu Kota Belud and re-visit my very first posting, SMK Tenghilan. If possible, we will try to meet up with as many ex-students as possible at Tamu Kota Belud. SLing and I were kinda excited to go to tamu ( a.k.a. pasar pagi in Sabah ) as there would be a variety of food stuff, vegetables, handicraft and many other things sold there. It is a place where the locals would meet, share a puff of rokok gulung ( local tobacco blend is still the best smelling ever ! ) or even catch up on daily lives. For us, it was a 53.4km car ride and we were ecstatic about the journey as usual. 

That morning, the sun was blistering hot as usual and the journey was good. We passed through the small kampong in Tamparuli and Tenghilan. I could still remember those kampongs nearby Tenghilan town and after an hour or so travel, we arrived in Kota Belud town. Nothing much had changed but there were some visible changes structurally. Apang suggested that we go to one of her favourite mee sup ayam stall tucked in one corner of the shophouses.

All of us instaneously agreed as our stomachs were churning out WWF Royal Rumble sounds and we could all eat a horse for all I cared! Looking for a parking spot along the narrow roads can be quite challenging and daunting. Nevertheless, we managed to get one and I had to re-parked the car twice sparking the debate “ where did you get your licence?” jibe. I proudly announced to my detractors that “ I got my licence from Kota Belud, yessirree! “

Tamu Kota Belud

Yup, I actually passed my driving licence exams ( practical driving and all that ) while taking them in Kota Belud. My instructor was one Tn Haji fella whom I am most grateful with as he was most patient with our group despite his car landing twice in the workshop for car crash against a ditch and car crash against a stall! Definitely I wasn’t the driver for both that occasion – it was someone else!

Anyway, upon arrival at the mee soup shop, there was already a crowd there. We had to wait patiently to be seated and also to get our orders done. Obviously, this was one of the popular shop for mee sup ayam. Yeah, there are no pork served in most stalls around Kota Belud except Chinese stalls, I guess. We were finally seated when a couple and their 5 children left the table. It was a pile of mess on the table, actually. The poor shop assistant had to clean the table properly for us and I could see the piles of chicken bones, rice, tissues etc.etc. Apang told us that their speciality was the mee sup ayam and that was what we wanted.

Yunno what, the taste was really good. The soup/broth was really very good and the accompanying mee/ mee hoon and chicken were equally good. The clear and sweet tasting broth made it all so worthwhile to sit and sample this simple fare indeed. With stomachs full, we headed towards Tamu Kota Belud which was quite jammed with people, animals, cars and vans. It was so lively there and the colors, sights and sounds were fantastic. This was just one of the regular tamu of the month as I am told.  The Tamu Besar would bring in more crowd and more stuff and this is usually held once a month.

Anyway, a stroll along the tamu revealed quite a lot of food stuff being sold. I especially like the colors of the local kuih and delicacies; looked interesting especially the panjaram kuih which was in quite some flavours. Then it was off to the tobacco stall for me as I smell the aroma of the local tobacco ; yeah, sweet smelling and some can be quite expensive. I was told that there would be samples given to a prospective buyer and they would roll it into rokok daun and then sample it by lighting it up. The buyer will then buy the blend he/she wants.

Quite an industry here in Sabah, actually. When the women went to the nearby washroom, I managed to ask a seller to tell me about the blends and he took the trouble to show me some of the blends and the prices for it too. He showed me the better blends, density and all that plays a major part in getting the best out of your puff. He offered me a good pinch of the better blend but I declined telling him that I am a non-smoker. He seemed puzzled but later he smiled when I explained to him that I quit smoking a long long time ago but I still remember how good the blends were when I was in Tenghilan, Sabah then.

We then walked along an array of vegetables and dried fish stuff. There was an interesting array of salted fish on display and on sale. The ikan talang salted fish was the more popular one followed by scores of ikan merah salted fish, ikan sulip salted fish, ikan kerapu ( garoupa ) salted fish and ikan tenggiri ( Spanish mackerel ) salted fish. Rusni bought a very nice cut piece of ikan talang salted fish for RM 16.00 and 1kg of ikan sulip salted fish for RM 14.00 ( about 5 pcs ). Apang chose for Rusni the fish pieces as this was her place and she does have a good eye for fresh & good salted fish pieces. This fire brand Apang can be quite a task for sellers as she haggled for prices and quantity! Love that spirit in her, really! She will not entertained any excuses from the vendors to make any extra buck off her as she knows her prices well enough – what a lady! She always gets the best prices for us , the quality & quantity too!

We finally met up with Betty Pigi, another one of my ex-students at the handicraft area. She now owns a small stall and a bakery stall along Kota Belud route to Kota Marudu if I am not mistaken. It was good to see Betty after all these years. SLing and Apang was bargaining with some of the handicraft traders as Rusni and myself talked to Betty. I could see that Betty was really tired and stressed due to her work and so on but it was nice of her to drop by to meet up with us. We then invited her to take a memory trip with us to SMK Tenghilan which she happily did. On our way out of the tamu, we met with Apang’s sister and we were introduced to her.

They seemed so alike and I was glad to make her acquaintance. I also met up with Fredoline , another ex-student, husband of Apang’s sister. We decided to have a drink and have some fellowship time before proceeding down memory lane in SMK Tenghilan. It was good to catch up with Fred as he is popularly known. Humorous, friendly and fun fella is how I would described him while Apang’s sister was always smiling and quiet. A great compliment to one another , actually. Great couple and great people.

We parted after the drinks as we headed towards SMK Tenghilan. Upon reaching Pekan Tenghilan, SLing and I felt very nostalgic as the old shophouses were there. The old billiards shop was still there ( many fights broke out here ! ) while the old grocery shop was still there. Adorning the side and back of the row of shophouses were the new brick buildings and nicely done up tamu centre. We drove straight up to the security post and Rusni explained to the guard on duty that we just wanted to visit the school we once taught some 20 years ago and we were given permission to do so.

I must say that the tar road leading up to the school was horrendous and filled with potholes but it will not deter us from getting to the places we want to go. We immediately drove up to the apartments we once shared. It was really nostalgic for all of us. The feeling of being there was so surreal and I really enjoy staring at the field below. The place where many winners and losers were made but solid character were built. I told Rusni and SLing that we poured our blood, sweat and tears down there on the field. Rusni shook her head in agreement and there was just an overwhelming feeling that moment.

We then went up to the apartment and found the apartment to be in a bad shape despite its makeover. We were told earlier by the guard that the building had been repaired but deemed unsafe during the last quake shake. Rusni had exclaimed that it would be nice to be able to get into her unit once again to have a “feel” of things and I told her I would obliged her if she would patient with me as I picked the door lock. Sweating slightly due to the humid conditions, finally, I got the door open and the smile & joy on Rusni’s face says it all. No need for words at that moment.

SLing told me then , “ Ivan, you are back being naughty again,huh? “ and then she smiled in approval. I guess, my little way of thanking Rusni for the hospitality she had shown us all these days we’ve been in Sabah. It was good to be at the places we used to stay and shared our lives with weekly barbecues, food sharing time, fellowshipping and even a cup of coffee when the lights were out then. The good and bad we had experienced at this place really helped us grow as individuals and friends. 

We then toured the school where we taught the students and so much had changed. I remembered standing at the assembly stand and it was still there. We photographed as much as we could and remembered as much as we could. What a transformation…what a change….there was even a new Form Six block at the back section which was once an empty barren land. So much had changed and for the better , I guess.



As I walked through the corridors I once used as a teacher, I felt good that I had in a very little way contributed to the success of this school. There was so much joy in my heart and SLing shared the same feelings with me. The thoughts that ran through my head was , ‘” Did I make a difference while I was here? “  “Did I do my best at this place? “ “ Did I enjoyed every moment I was here ? “  My answer was simply “ YES, I DID!” That’s all that matters, right?

 

We then toured the hostel which brought a lot of memories for Apang and Betty Pigi. It was good to see those two giving their comments and anger too towards the not so nice girls hostel accommodations. It shows that they care and they really do care. It was good to know that some things don’t change in these girls! It was hilarious for me to see them fussing around as if they were still in school!!!! We bid an emotional farewell to Betty as she would not be able to follow us to KK as she had to head back to Kota Belud for her preparations and so on. We then headed out but not before SLing exclaimed that the Pusat Kesihatan Tenghilan she used to visit while carrying our son, JWee in her tummy, was still there. I stopped to photograph the PK Tenghilan and SLing exclaimed how “wicked” I was to let her walk all the way from school to the PK Tenghilan. It was one experience she would not forget as she was a young mother then.

We reached Tamparuli town in no time and we visited the Jambatan Gantung Tamparuli which we had missed all these years. It was really good to be able to be on the suspension bridge and I could see the road below which was flooded all the time when heavy downpour hit Tamparuli town those days. It was all very nostalgic but I enjoyed every second of it.

In the night, we had the grand opportunity to be with Rusni’s family for Christmas Carolling session. It was an opportunity that we would not miss but as it was a private family thing, we did not want to intrude. But when Rusni invited us to go to her place to share this special moment, it was an honour indeed to witness such a symbolic carolling session.

Portion of the scriptures were read by the carollers and also by Rusni. Then the song of praises were sung and followed by the blessings to Rusni and her household. What an experience indeed! Earlier, we had the chance to sample home cooked meal of chicken curry, vegetables and the salted fish bought from Tamu KB earlier in the day. There was so much laughter and fun in the house. Rusni’s mom was such a sweet lady despite her problem in remembering things from time to time. I enjoyed the time of fellowship there as I met another one of my ex-students, Fredreck Kantod who is Rusni’s brother–in-law. There is really a real human connection somewhere and some how in Sabah …..haahahahahahaaaaaaaaaaa…..someone and everyone is somebody’s family member, right? Scary, isn’t it? Hahaahahaahahaaaaaaaa....

Anyway, it has been a long, tiring but fruitful day indeed. The day had been filled with goodness throughout and what more could anyone asked for. As I lay down my head that night, sleep comes easy for me as though I am put to rest that everything is gonna be alright….and is alright……………

Yeah, it is gonna be a real fine day indeed……tomorrow.